Developing acquired tastes

Numerous Japanese delicacies await at Kiko Sushi Bar

By Colleen Johnson, The Ottawa XPress April 15, 2010

Serving some of the tastiest sea creatures in town
Photograph by: Ben Welland, The Ottawa XPress

Located among some of Preston Street's newest digs, Kiko feels not unlike a contemporary art gallery, with its massive woodblock print reproductions on the walls. Pieces of bamboo create a dividing wall between the dining spaces, and a long, sleek bar begs for diners to sample some of the best sushi Ottawa has to offer. The price point here is surprisingly good considering the upscale vibe, with filling mains starting at just under $9.

The menu at Kiko reads like a book. There are plenty of vegetarian options in the mix, and the Japanese dishes range from standard offerings (like the ubiquitous California roll) to far more adventurous fare.

Having only seen uni, or sea urchin roe, on the likes of the original Iron Chef, my date insisted that we try it. Served raw as sashimi, these little morsels smelled not unlike low tide, and looked like slithery little ochre-coloured tongues. Not being one to pass up a food dare, I gave them a go, but decided that perhaps they were an acquired taste based on their slippery texture alone.

I was far more keen on the deep fried oysters. Lined up like little soldiers, these fried critters were drizzled with a spicy vinegar sauce and garnished with plenty of crisp lettuce. The miso soup was as it should be, and the spider rolls looked nothing short of spectacular, with their spindly legs sticking straight up in the air. The Delicious rolls were filled with scallops, crab, mango and avocado, wrapped in shrimp and drizzled sparingly with a delicate white wine sauce.

The portion size of the mains was more than generous. My date's stir-fried pork shogayaki was fragrant with ginger. Served with rice and a heaping pile of fried bean sprouts, the thinly sliced pork was perfectly tender and faintly sweet. The nabeyaki udon, or special hot pot, was loaded up with two pieces of shrimp tempura, shitake mushrooms, chicken, sliced fish balls, a freshly cracked egg, and plenty of thick udon noodles all in a mild flavoured broth.

Though the service was pretty spotty at times (the food was poorly timed and the bill took far too long in coming), I'd recommend giving this place a shot for the food alone. If this new joint can bring the front of the house up to par with the back, Kiko is sure to be a success.

Kiko Sushi Bar

349B Preston St.; (613) 695-3143

Appetizers: $1.95-$11.95

Mains: $8.95-$35.95

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